Let’s start with the kilt. The original kilt (as worn in Scotland; the concept goes back to the most ancient civilizations)
was about two yards wide and as much as six yards long, one end wound around the wearer’s back, draped over the
shoulder, and secured with a brooch. A leather belt secured it at the waist and the lower part was pleated and
gathered to form the “great kilt.” It is from the lower part of this garment that the kilt as we know it today comes,
although in its present form it is largely an invention of the 18th Century.
The origins of the distinctive cloth patterns, which are properly called tartan, are not really known. But the earliest
references to tartan are found in treasury accounts as early as 1471. By the late 17th Century, it was written that
the pattern, or sett, varied from place to place so that a person’s origins might be known from the colors of his tartan.
Following the crushing defeat suffered by supporters of Bonnie Prince Charlie in 1745, the wearing of tartan by the
Highlanders was forbidden by law until 1782. Even then, it was not popular until 1822, when King George IV came to
visit Scotland – the first visit by a reigning monarch since Charles II. Sir Walter Scott persuaded the King to wear a
kilt, triggering the popularity of tartans that persists to this day.
Today, there are some 6000 registered tartans, some for clans, some for septs – or branches – of the clan, families,
cities, military services, and on and on. Clan Donald, for instance, has 27 tartans. It is a rare individual who cannot
find a tartan to call his own. If you know you’re a Scot but you aren’t sure of your lineage, wear the Scottish National
tartan. Or a Texan may select the Texas Bluebonnet tartan. Canadians may wear the Maple Leaf tartan or one of
the provincial tartans. U.S. Marines have the Leatherneck tartan, and the Air Force has its tartan, also. If you like a
particular tartan, wear it! There are no “tartan police,” even in Scotland.
Pleats:
A kilt may be pleated in two ways: to the sett or to the stripe.
Pleating to the sett is the most common. The material is pleated so that when it is pressed and laid flat, the tartan
pattern is continuous across the pleats.
Pleating to the stripe is normally done by the Highland Regiments. Originally, they wore the famous “Black Watch”
tartan. The Gordon Highlanders added a white stripe for their tartan. Stripes of white and red were added by the
Seaforth Highlanders, and so on. Today, the pleating for military kilts is done in a way that the distinctive stripe is on
the same place on all the pleats.
Terms you want to know:
Plaid: It could mean a pattern of right-angled stripes, but in Scottish usage, it refers to a rectangular piece of
tartan material worn over the left shoulder as part of Scottish national dress. (Note: Only the Chiefs of clans and
Scottish dancers wear the plaid over the right shoulder.)
Tartan: The distinctive pattern of colors that signify a particular clan, etc. (See above)
Dress: A tartan worn on more formal occasions which may be brighter than the everyday tartan, or it may not
look anything like it. Want two kilts? Get one for day wear and another for evening wear.
Ancient: A tartan in muted colors, resembling what the tartan might have looked like had it been made with primitive
vegetable dyes.
Hunting: Tartan in muted shades, designed to be worn for deer stalking or other field events.
Sett: The pattern of the tartan, according to the number, color and location of the threads making up the tartan.
Modern: The commonly seen tartan, in bright colors, made with modern dyes.
Weathered: The tartan, faded as it would have been if it had been worn out in the Scottish Highlands for several
years. (Think faded blue jeans)
Weights:
Fabric for kilts is designated by the number of ounces to a yard of wool fabric. The lightest weight Loch, Stock and
Barrel normally works with is a 10-ounce material. There are lighter fabrics, but these do not hang properly, and
even the 10-ounce is not really recommended for a kilt, unless you’re wearing it in Houston in August, for example.
Generally, the most common weight is 13-ounce for a good, long wearing kilt. The much heavier 18-ounce is also
available, but, like the 10-ounce, unless you plan to wear your kilt while shoveling snow in Minneapolis in January,
it's generally too heavy for general wear. Highland Regiments do wear the heavy material, but in Scotland, that
makes sense.
lindaneal@lochstockandbarrel.com 817-923-4638
